经过了这个暑假,在各位老哥的疯狂安利之下小弟也从那个青涩的boy变得dandyism了,基本每周五都在往北安普顿跑,让我对英系的皮鞋也有了许多的了解,从一开始的crokett jones到后来的john lobb Edward green, 虽然对于一个aerospace engineering的学生完全是不务正业
Edward green介绍翻译自wiki
Edward Green是一位成立于1890年的英国鞋匠.Edward Green总部位于英格兰北安普顿。 生产中涉及的手工水平非常高，每周只完成约250双鞋。 他们的鞋子也被温莎公爵，欧内斯特海明威和科尔波特等客户选中。爱德华格林的鞋子可以在他们自己的商店在伦敦的Jermyn街和巴黎的圣日耳曼大道以及世界各地的商店购买，如墨尔本的双僧，日本的伊势丹，温布尔登的比赛，萨克斯第五大道。
原文
Edward Green is an English shoemaker founded in 1890. Edward Green is based in Northampton, England. The level of handwork involved in production is very high and only around 250 pairs of shoes are completed a week.During the 1930s, Edward Green was one of the largest manufacturers of officers boots for the British Army. Their shoes have also been selected by such clients as the Duke of Windsor, Ernest Hemingway and Cole Porter.Edward Green shoes are available from their own shops in Jermyn Street in London and on the Boulevard St Germain in Paris, as well as stores around the world such as Double Monk in Melbourne, Isetan in Japan, Matches in Wimbledon Village, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City and Unipair in Seoul.
值得一提的是Edward green和crockett jones一样目前都是没有被大集团收购的独立品牌,这样的话品控会比较有保障,但貌似目前亚洲圈只有日本市场比较成功。
No.1 Edward Green dark oak chelsea d82
chelsea是edward green最受欢迎的牛津鞋款式之一,算是最经典的三接头牛津,所以不会出错
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goodyear结构藏线鞋底
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No.2 Edward Green nightshade Curzon LastE915
With its slender profile and fluid lines the almond toe is perhaps the most graceful of English shoe lasts. Certainly it’s long been a favourite of ours at Edward Green.
The 915 last represents a refinement of that tradition — a modern, yet timeless look which is the basis for a new family of smart dress shoes. The toes tapering is centred, whilst theres a subtle side-wall for a more defined look.
last 915是一款非常优雅的鞋楦,圆但不是非常圆,尖也不是非常尖,这双鞋达到了商务和休闲的最佳平衡,尽管我觉得前面这块丑萌丑萌的感觉好像猎鸭靴
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仍然是藏线鞋底
eg应该是有三种不同颜色的皮底,纯棕色,有刷黑漆的棕底,top drawer的琴底
No.3 Dark Oak Antique Asquith LastE888
个人感觉eg的last888和eg的last 348有些相似,是一款略方头的楦型,会十分契合双排扣monk的鞋型,用在oxford上也会十分的优雅和正式。
Our classic chisel toed last.The 888 is Edward Greens classic chisel-toed last. It sits between the softer profile of the 808 and the crisply defined 890.
In black calf, the Asquith semi-brogue makes for a sophisticated formal business shoe. Yet cut from dark oak or mink suede, the Asquith possesses a versatile character, working as well with denim as with navy suiting.
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No.4 Navy UTAH Galway welted LastE82
Weve been making the Galway boot for the best part of a century. Once called pattern 1836, the Galway is instantly recognisable from the distinctive curved arrowhead on its side. Both practical and full of character, the Galway has gained iconic status as the ultimate derby boot.
The styles strong, country heritage is reflected in the veldtschoen boot we continue to make in country calf on the rounded 64 last. Veldtschoen construction involves the upper being pulled over the welt for added weather protection, and was supposedly pioneered by the Boers of southern Africa before being adopted by the British military.
同好的这双鞋的材质是utah皮的,常用于eg的dover和galway的一种eg创造的皮料,制革商选择布列塔尼和多尔多涅地区最好的小牛,所以这种材料的鞋子十分的轻盈且十分的柔软,这是一种偏休闲的风格,类似Country Grain,所以这种皮料多用于拼接的设计,这双galway是全utah的故整双靴子都十分柔软不存在break in的过程。
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